Scotland: Top Ten

The other day, my friend, Becca, mentioned that she and her husband are planning a trip to Scotland.  She asked my advice since she knows Scotland is my favorite travel destination.  Our conversation got me thinking about why I am so enchanted by this country.  Here are my top ten favorite memories of visiting Scotland . . .

  1. Photo by L. Walkins, 2010

    Photo by L. Walkins, 2010

    Edinburgh — The Scottish capital with its golden sandstone buildings, hidden closes and genteel New Town is a fairytale city guarded and protected by the immense castle on the cliff overlooking Princes Street Gardens.  Edinburgh Castle dates back to the twelfth century and today is an iconic tourist attraction according to the official website.  In my eyes, the castle certainly is iconic.  On one of my first trips to Scotland, I took the train from Glasgow to Scotland.  As we pulled into Waverly Station, I was greeted by a stunning view of the castle looming above the city.  Paris has the Eiffel Tower and Edinburgh has its castle.

    On our last trip to the Scottish capital, my husband, Ed, my cousin, Kelly, and I stayed at a wonderful boutique hotel, the Scotsman on North Bridge.  The hotel is housed in the former Scotsman Newspaper building.  The location is ideal, our room was comfortable and the hotel name on the outside of the building is shaped like a welcoming smile, which made me laugh every time we came in from our day of sightseeing.

  2. Photo by L. Walkins, 2010

    Photo by L. Walkins, 2010

    Military Tattoo — Every summer, in August, Edinburgh hosts a world-renowned arts festival.  One of the highlights of the festival is the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.  Every evening, massed pipes and drums and massed military bands take over the Castle Esplanade giving rousing performances to appreciative crowds.  Ed and I have been fortunate enough to enjoy the amazing spectacle that is the Tattoo two times.  The theme for the 2013 Military Tattoo is Year of Natural Scotland.

  3. Photo by L. Walkins, 1995

    Photo by L. Walkins, 1995

    Oban — A Victorian seaport on the west coast of Scotland, Oban is the seafood capital of Scotland.  Rather appropriately, Ed and I ate the most delicious fish and chips one afternoon in Oban.  We purchased our impromptu lunch at a corner take-away shop and ate the delectable fish and potatoes sitting by the harbor.  What a mouthwatering memory!
    Oban is also home to McCaig’s Tower, a definitive landmark.  Perched at the top of the town and the site of spectacular views, McCaig’s Tower was built in 1897 by a local banker, who wanted to provide work for the area stonemasons.

    Just off the coast, the islands of the Inner Hebrides dot the horizon.  In 1995, my friend, Susan, and I took an excursion from Oban to the Isle of Mull where we toured Duart Castle, the ancestral home of the Clan Maclean.  We explored the dungeons, state rooms and lovely gardens, enjoying a truly memorable afternoon.

  4. Photo by L. Walkins, 1995

    Photo by L. Walkins, 1995

    Millionaire’s Shortbread and Wall’s Ice Cream Bars — While participating in a week-long creative writing class at the University of Edinburgh’s International Summer School, I discovered this delectable treat in the dining hall.  Light and buttery shortbread topped with sweet caramel and smooth chocolate.  To my delight, I have found an easy and delicious recipe for the shortbread, so I can now indulge in a little taste of Scotland at home.

    Another delectable treat discovered during a Scottish vacation is the Wall’s Magnum ice cream bar.  Rich vanilla ice cream coated in luxurious Belgian chocolate, the Magnum bar comes in a variety of flavors.  My favorite is the Magnum White.  These creamy and refreshing ice cream treats are now available in my local grocery store.  Hooray!

  5. Photo by L. Walkins, 2006

    Photo by L. Walkins, 2006

    Royal Yacht Britannia — In 2006, Ed and I discovered that the Royal Family’s yacht is docked in Leith and open to the public.  Launched in 1953, the Royal Yacht Britannia traveled more than one million miles around the world.  Many of the royals honeymooned on the yacht.  Due to the state of the economy and the expense of maintaining the Britannia, the ship was decommissioned in 1994 destined to become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Scotland.  Ed and I toured the ship amazed by the elegance and comfort of the royal apartments.  We appreciated the audio narration provided as we explored one splendid room after another.

  6. Photo by L. Walkins, 1995

    Photo by L. Walkins, 1995

    St. Andrews — A quick train ride from Edinburgh, St. Andrews is revered as the Home of Golf.  To play a round on the Old Course must be a dream come true for enthusiasts of the ancient game.  During one visit, I went to the British Golf Museum in St. Andrews and spent the afternoon learning a lot about history of the sport.  However, there is much more to this lovely coastal resort.  It is home to a respected university and the site of many historical ruins, including St. Andrews Castle, a medieval fortress and St. Andrews Cathedral, once the largest cathedral in Scotland.

  7. Photo by L. Walkins, 2010

    Photo by L. Walkins, 2010

    Holyrood Palace — Mary Queen of Scots lived out many dramatic moments of her tumultuous reign in Holyrood Palace.  Most notably, her favored Italian secretary, David Rizzio, was killed in the Queen’s private rooms in the palace.  This gruesome event sent her on a fateful path that led to her eventual execution in England.  Today, Holyrood Palace is the home of Queen Elizabeth II and her family when they are in Edinburgh.  I have toured Holyrood several times, lunched in its pleasant café, wandered through the palace grounds and bought souvenirs in its charming gift shop.

  8. Photo by L. Walkins, 2006

    Photo by L. Walkins, 2006

    Inveraray Castle — On the same day Ed and I visited Oban, we also toured Inveraray Castle in Argyll.  We were on a bus tour of the West Highlands.  Ancestral home of the Clan Campbell, the castle is the residence of the Duke of Argyll.  Ed and I had a grand time wandering through the castle’s armoury hall, state dining room, tapestry drawing room, kitchens and picture turret where family memorabilia is displayed.  We were intrigued by the fact that the present duke is married to Eleanor Cadbury of the Cadbury Chocolate family.  We were also surprised last winter when we recognized Inveraray Castle as one of the settings in the popular BBC series, Downton Abbey.

  9. Photo by L. Walkins, 2010

    Photo by L. Walkins, 2010

    Sheep Heid Inn — In 2010, I had just finished writing my novel, Forget-Me-Not.  When I went to Edinburgh in August, I made an effort to visit some of the settings from my book, including Duddingston Loch, where both Darcy and Mary fretted about the nature of true love.  Ed and I admired the scenic lake and then went for lunch at the oldest pub in Scotland, the Sheep Heid Inn, established in 1360.  Historically, this cozy pub has been frequented by famous monarchs and poets like Mary Queen of Scots and her son, James VI, as well as Robert Louis Stevenson and Robert Burns.  Ed and I loved the atmosphere as well as the hearty food.  I enjoyed a tasty chicken and chorizo salad, while Ed devoured a filling Angus beef burger.

  10. Photo by L. Walkins, 1995

    Photo by L. Walkins, 1995

    Loch Ness — In our travels around Scotland, my friend Susan and I took a day cruise on Loch Ness.  It was a beautiful, sunny day.  A pleasant scientist named John piloted the boat and told us some interesting facts about the loch and its notorious monster.  He also regaled us with the history of Urquhart Castle, which graces the shore of the famous loch.  As we approached the castle, we could hear a lone bagpipe player making music from its ramparts.   We got chills!

How I wish I were planning a trip to Scotland like Becca.  Whenever I become nostalgic for my favorite travel destination, I like to lose myself in the pages of one of the Isabel Dalhousie or 44 Scotland Street novels by Alexander McCall Smith and take a vicarious literary journey to walk the streets of Edinburgh with his quirky characters.  Scotland is a place of dramatic history, unique traditions and breathtaking landscapes — a place of wonder!!

Carousel Rides: Galloping Back to the Simple Pleasures of Childhood

Photo by L. Walkins

Photo by L. Walkins

Who can resist the glittering lights, flashing mirrors and beckoning music of a merry-go-round?  For me, climbing into the saddle of a lavishly painted carousel horse always transports me on a nostalgic journey back to the simple pleasures of childhood.  For the past several years, while on vacation, I have tracked down a carousel to ride (and photograph) whenever possible.  I have ridden them in New York, Chicago and even Paris, France.  I have found merry-go-rounds populated by animals on the endangered species list or animated sea creatures.  The most unusual carousel I have come across in the my travels was a double-decker carousel at Wildwood in New Jersey.  One of my favorite carousels is located in Princes Street Gardens in Edinburgh, Scotland (the same one my character Darcy Seton rides in Forget-Me-Not).

Photo by L. Walkins

Photo by L. Walkins

It is interesting to note that the cheerful carousel that enchants Darcy Seton can trace its origins back to the jousting tournaments most likely attended by her ancestor, Mary, maid of honor to Mary, Queen of Scots.  The word carousel comes from the Italian carosello which means “little war.”  In medieval times, knights competed in a game requiring them to catch a ring suspended from a tree branch with their spear.  As part of their training, the knights used a rotating practice machine equipped with model horses and chariots suspended by chains from a center pole.  Through the centuries, this practical machine evolved into the popular amusement park or fairground attraction of today.

Photo by L. Walkins

Photo by L. Walkins

From 1880 to 1930, the carousel enjoyed a golden age in America.  During that time, master carvers created magnificent hand-carved and decoratively painted wooden animals.  Today, they are considered treasured works of art, an important part of Americana.  Fewer than 150 of these classic carousels remain in operation.  The two oldest American carousels date back to 1876.  Located in Westerly, Rhode Island and in Oak Bluffs, MA on the island Martha’s Vineyard, they are both flying horse carousels.  The horses are not attached to the floor of the carousel housing.  Instead, they are suspended by chains and fly out as the ride revolves.

Photo by L. Walkins

Photo by L. Walkins

My state, Massachusetts, is home to seven additional antique carousels.  I think I’ll have to plan a road trip this summer to continue my quest.  In addition to riding some of these local carousels, I may also  drive down to Bristol, Connecticut to visit the New England Carousel Museum.   Undoubtedly, a merry time will be had by all!

A Place of Inspiration, Information and Excitement!

Claire met me in front of the bookstore.  I stood under the green and white striped awning, with my hands in the pockets of my denim jacket and my back to the wind.  A sharp breeze from the beach swooped down Main Street every few minutes.  The sky was blanketed with thick, white clouds.  Across the street, somebody was changing the titles on the movie theater marquee.  So far, the sign read Kramer v. Kra, and the man on the scaffolding held a giant ‘M’ in his gloved hands.  Dustin Hoffman was one of my favorite actors.  I hoped Scott would be willing to sit through another girly movie with me.     

Claire appeared from around the corner.  She shivered in Mark’s track team jacket, which was a couple of sizes too large for her, and swept her wind-blown hair from her eyes. 

“Sam, Rachel and Sarah are inside.  We’re going to browse in the book store and then head over to the boutique,” I said.

Claire stood up on tiptoe to peer into the store window.    “Sam’s here?  Does that mean . . .”

I shook my head.  “She’s still not talking to me . . .

In Sandra Cahill’s Best Friend, my character, Emma Butler, and her friends love to hang out in their local bookstore.  Both Emma and Sam are enthusiastic readers.  In the late 1970s, small bookshops graced the main streets of towns across America.  When I was a teen, I used to ride my bike to a wonderful used bookstore called the Book Swap.  I spent many an afternoon happily browsing through their stacks of paperbacks.  Today, I am glad that despite the proliferation of e-books and online booksellers, some independent bookstores still offer a warm and inviting haven where readers may continue to admire the covers of newly printed novels or flip through the pages of glossy coffee table books while they shop.

Photo by L. Walkins, August 2009

The town where I grew up, Madison, CT, is home to an award-winning independent bookstore.  R.J. Julia Booksellers opened its doors in 1990 and soon became the place where shoreline residents flocked to find their next good read.  Although, I now live several hundred miles away, whenever I drive through Connecticut with my husband, we always make a point of stopping in Madison to visit our favorite bookstore.  Not only do the knowledgeable booksellers offer a fabulous selection of titles including a shelf of staff suggestions, the store also hosts a full calendar of author events, provides self-publishing opportunities with the Espresso Book Machine and runs a busy café.  The next time you are traveling down I-95, take exit 61, make a left onto Route 79, drive into downtown Madison to do a little book shopping or simply enjoy a cup of coffee and a sweet treat in the RJ Café.  According to their website, the booksellers at R.J. Julia’s pride themselves on providing “a place of inspiration, information and excitement.”  I guarantee once you step through the door, you will be inspired to return to R.J. Julia’s again and again.

The Call of the Muse

Last Saturday was Recital Day for my niece, Sarah. A devoted and talented dancer, she looks forward to this capstone day of her dance season all year long. This year, she performed in six dances throughout the four shows, tap, ballet, jazz and lyrical. Sarah also confidently donned her gold jacket for the finale of each performance. As I sat in the audience, I marveled over how amazing all of the kids are. From the cutest three-year old ballerina to the accomplished seventeen-year old tap dancer, they are all clearly inspired by the Muse, Terpsichore.

In Greek mythology, Terpsichore and her eight sisters, are the daughters of Mnemosyne and Zeus, who devote their lives to the arts. Terpsichore is the Muse of Dance. She is the patron of education and the harp, as well as dance. In art, she is often shown wearing a crown of laurels and carrying a harp. Children who are able to follow the call of the muse and explore their talents and creativity through the arts are fortunate, indeed.

In my novels, Terpsichore’s sister, Euterpe (Muse of Music), plays an important role in the lives of Darcy and Mary Seton (Forget-Me-Not) and Emma Butler (Sandra Cahill’s Best Friend). Darcy, a music teacher at a private school in Boston, plays the violin in a community orchestra. Centuries earlier, her ancestor, Mary Seton, spends much of her time pursuing her own interest in the arts, playing the lute for Queen Mary’s courtiers or sharing a quiet afternoon embroidering with the Queen. High school sophomore, Emma Butler, loves to listen to classical music and is an enthusiastic member of her school band. Her favorite piece is Tchaikovsky’s “1812 Overture.”

imageThe brass section proceeded somberly through the opening bars, while the woodwinds counted. The tempo increased slightly and the flutes joined in, echoing musical phrases with the trumpets and trombones in a thrilling crescendo until the percussion brought the rising emotion to a thunderous conclusion in a resounding downbeat.

Scott was playing the timpani and he made his important entrance with admirable precision. I couldn’t keep myself from looking at Sam at that exact moment. Her eyes twinkled at me in shared delight . . .

Like Emma, I am a flute player, so I too feel connected to the muse, Euterpe and as a writer I am partial to Clio, the muse of history and writing.  Music, dance, writing and visual arts bring beauty and enjoyment into the lives of all who are compelled to follow the call of the muse.

Millionaire’s Shortbread

In 1995, I traveled to Scotland to take a week-long writing course at the International Summer School at University of Edinburgh.  In addition to honing my creative writing skills, I did a lot of memorable sightseeing and discovered a delicious Scottish snack in the dining hall at the university.  Millionaire’s Shortbread!

Darcy and Ian indulge in a few squares of this satisfyingly sweet shortbread in my novel, Forget-Me-Not.

Darcy tucked her paperback into her bag as he returned to the table carrying a tray laden with two white crockery mugs and plates of chocolate-covered shortbread.

“I got you Earl Grey,” he said.

“Wonderful.”  She looked at him, her gaze drawn once again to his slate gray eyes.   The color reminded her of the ocean on a stormy day.

He took his seat and added copious spoonfuls of sugar to his coffee.  “The cookies are called millionaire’s shortbread.  Have you ever had it before?”

“I don’t think so.”  Darcy took a bite, closing her eyes as she savored the buttery sweetness.  “Is there caramel in it?”

“Uh huh.”  He took a generous mouthful, his eyes twinkling at her as he chewed and swallowed.  “It was my favorite thing in this tea room. Until today.” 

Like Darcy, I was delighted by the chocolate and caramel flavors mixed with the crunch of the buttery cookie.  Shortbread lovers can find a long list of recipes online for this popular U.K. treat.   I tried a recipe from Claire Robinson of the Food Network after she baked a tray of Millionaire’s Shortbread on her show 5-Ingredient Fix.  The cookies were easy to make and delicious – a little taste of Scotland at home.

Easter Customs: Today and Yesterday

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Photo by L. Walkins, August 2010

Each year, Easter is celebrated on the first Sunday following the first full moon of spring.  After a long winter, I have been heartened this week to see some encouraging signs of spring.  Just yesterday, I spotted a cheery bed of crocuses, purple and white petals open to the warm sun.  Two nights ago, a beautiful full moon hung in the night sky, heralding the coming of Easter on this Sunday, March 31.

According to popular legend, many Easter traditions arise from pagan customs related to the Anglo-Saxon goddess of the dawn and spring, Eostre.  In the sixteenth century, when Mary Seton, a character in my novel, Forget-Me-Not, served as a maid of honor to her childhood friend, Mary Queen of Scots, she must have observed some of these traditions while celebrating this important feast day.  Perhaps she exchanged Easter gifts with the Queen and the other Marys.  She may have watched an Easter play or taken part in a flowering the cross ritual.  Most certainly, the Court hosted a Paschal Feast, and perhaps Mary enjoyed eating some hot cross buns.

 In the twenty-first century, Stirling Castle, one of Queen Mary’s primary residences during her reign, offers a day of family fun on Easter.  Visitors may compete in a crossbow championship or attend “fool school.”  Children are treated to a special tour during which they discover how Easter was celebrated by the Royal Stewart Court.

 As part of a day tour of the Highlands in August 2010, I briefly visited Stirling Castle with my cousin.  We enjoyed our afternoon, exploring the gardens and learning about the history of the castle, but before we knew it, we had to climb back onto our tour bus and head home for Edinburgh.  How wonderful would it be to go back to Stirling and walk in the footsteps of Mary Seton and her Queen. 

Edinburgh Castle: an Imposing Guardian

At the top of the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle looms over the city from its volcanic cliff.  Throughout history, the imposing fortress has guarded the capital, providing a home for generations of monarchs and a dramatic setting for pivotal and exciting events in Scottish history.  Edinburgh Castle is a quintessential landmark.

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Photo by L. Walkins

In Forget-Me-Not, when Darcy enters the city by train, she is thrilled and amazed by her first glimpse of Edinburgh Castle.

As the train chugged toward the station, the castle, a commanding and majestic fortress, appeared on the horizon.  Perched on its cliff of volcanic rock, Edinburgh Castle dominated the skyline.  Darcy covered her mouth with one hand as her eyes widened. 

The sight of the imposing edifice called to mind bits of her dream.  Darcy rubbed sleep from her eyes as the train entered the station and the stunning view of the castle vanished as suddenly as it had appeared . . .

When she emerges from Waverley Station, she catches sight of the Castle again.

She stepped out onto the busy sidewalk and tried to get her bearings.  As she turned in the direction of the hotel, she once again beheld a splendid view of Edinburgh Castle.  Above the gardens, the fortress rose stalwartly with flags flying from its stone ramparts.  Darcy paused to stare as the crowds of tourists jostled past her . . .

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Photo by L. Walkins

Whenever I travel to Edinburgh, the Castle is always high on my list of sightseeing musts.  After learning about Scotland’s royal and military history in the Great Hall and the Royal Palace and then the military museums, I enjoy taking a quiet moment in the oldest part of the castle: St. Margaret’s Chapel.  Like Darcy and her friend, Kathleen, I am enchanted by this tranquil corner of the bustling fortress.  I like to imagine generations of Scottish royalty retreating to the chapel to pray, seeking answers or perhaps forgiveness.  Built in 1130 the chapel is the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh.  According to the Castle’s website, the chapel is still used for christenings and weddings today.

A day at the Castle would not be complete without topping off the visit with a Castle-baked snack from one of the cafés followed by a look around the gift shop.   If you have never tried Millionaire’s shortbread and you love chocolate and caramel, I highly recommend you order this delectable treat at The Tea Rooms or the Redcoat Café.   The three shops at the Castle offer a fine selection of souvenirs, Scottish crafts, and Clan gifts, as well as whisky and fine foods.

Photo by L. Walkins

One final note!  If you visit Scotland in August don’t miss the opportunity to go to the Military Tattoo at Edinburgh Castle.  A highlight of the annual summer arts festival, the Tattoo offers a spectacular evening of rousing music, traditional dance and glorious fireworks on the Castle Esplanade.  The sight and sounds of the massed pipe and drum bands are inspiring.  The 2013 Military Tattoo will celebrate the Year of Natural Scotland.

The Harvard Bookstore

Hooray for Paige M. Gutenborg!  The Harvard Book Store in Cambridge, MA has a wonderful Espresso book-making machine, which magically prints out a high quality paperback in minutes.  With the assistance of the fantastic staff at the Harvard Book Store, I created and uploaded files for my two novels, Forget-Me-Not and Sandra Cahill’s Best Friend.  Before I knew it, I was holding copies of my books in my hands.  Now, Forget-Me-Not and Sandra Cahill’s Best Friend sit proudly on the shelf in my school library and many of my friends and family members have ordered their own copies.  

Forget-Me-Not and Sandra Cahill’s Best Friend are both available for sale on the Harvard Bookstore website.  Please order your copies today.
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